Udaipur -Happy New Year

It was with some sadness that we left Sid and the gang at Rohet, but our time was done and Madonna's was about to begin!.

Next step for us was Udaipur - the Mystical and Serene Indian city, which sounds like an oxymoron to me. We all found it very hard to believe that any Indian city could be serene, but we were going to give the hunt for serenity our best shot.

Serenity was definatly NOT to be found in the ever bustling market, and Ghat area, but when we went out on the lake from the city Palace, I have to admit that it was pretty serene.
This is the town where Octopussy was filmed, and the locals wont let you forget it, they were even showing the movie when we went out for dinner.

In the middle of the lake there is two manmade islands with magnificent hotels on them -very serene and mystical!
We had a really great day.

New years Eve was looming and having rejected the $300 dinner on the lake island - we were on the hunt for something else.
We managed to get a reservation for dinner at one of the roof top restaurants so we could watch the fireworks over the lake -the look on the managers face should have given us the tip that all was not as it seemed!
Dinner was great - and only 800 rps!~ but the restaurant closed at 10:00pm.
No matter to us flexible revellers, as many of the fire works jumped the run on the traditional midnight.
But in leaving to go back to our hotel we stumbled onto the NYE treat of a lifetime - the pimped auto rickshaw driver.
As we all crammed into the leopard skin rickshaw with disco lights and huge system, we rocked all the way home to the groovy beat of ......
Once we got back to the hotel, we had a chance to gatecrash onto the hotel Bollywood party - those Indians know how to party Bollywood style - some of the best dancing yet ( patting a dog, while changing a lightbulb)
A NYE to remember!

It all goes to hell once they start swapping hats

CAmel Safari

Camel Safari - 3 days on camel back ow!
our odessy started with watching in awe as the camel dudes spent about an hour sadlling and decorating our beasts - bells, nose rings, ribbons streamers - it was like the Christmas tree we didn't have ( see Jaisalmer entry re Christmas chair!).
Anyway camels were ready, we were ready, guide was running a little late. In retrospect, he probably could have actually stayed home, and spared us 3 days of "yeah, sure , why not"

The camels were fantastic and the herds man also excellent, we had a great time, except for Mike's chafing, and Tom's first 3 hours of agony.
Lunch the first day we stopped at a small village of Bishnoi people, they were lovely and welcomed us to their home, the little kids had been cleaned and scrubbed for the event, and they had a great time watching themselves on Mikes video camera. After a feed and little sleep, it was farwell to the Bishnoi and off to Luni - our stop for night one. On the way I finally ha da chance to get a little "waterpot on the head" action at one of the village wells. The local ladies just cracked up, at my total inadequecy.
Jack and Tom got separate camels after lunch, and the camel driver rode with them, when I asked why they were riding with them, I was told that they needed to be protected because they were boys and precious!
After a good sleep and wash at the beautiful Luni fort we headed back to Khandi camp, via a cricket match with the local kids at Lake .....?????
I think they we happy to see us, not only because of our fine Aussie cricket heritage( not skills), but because they were able to use our chairs as wickets, instead of using the little boy who traditionally seemed to be the wicket.
Again a good sleep and wash before the final push back to Rohet. Khandi camp was a buzz with the upcoming arrival of Madonna who was coming to spend New Years at the camp.
Our final day took us back to Rohet via a bizarre opium ceremony, and yet another magnificent lunch. we met up with lady called Helen who filled us in on the Benezir Bhutto saga, she was part of a British foreign office team in Pakistan to oversee the election, or maybe not.
We finally rocked back in to Rohet Garh, exhausted and dirty, but very happy from our adventure. It was sad saying good bye to the camels and Tom gave Haboo as a momento of their time together, they were a great team by the end of the trip

Rohet Garh and Khandi

Rohet Garh is a jewel in the desert, it is Sid's family home as the Mini marharajah of Rohet, about an hour from Jodhpur.
Sid is a keen horse man, and the palace has horse memorabilia everywhere.
One of the staff took us for a walk in the village after lunch and we wandered into the yard where the local potter was making the village water pots which was amazing to watch, he gave us a qucik demo which was very cool, he just worked on a round piece of concrete stone which he span really quickly then dumped a lump of lake mud and "donkey dust" and created magic, from the single blob he made a money box, a dish, a vase, and pot.


After we spent the afternoon in the gardens, then went out to Khandi camp where we would start out camel safari.
Khandi is amazing,the most beautiful "camping" experience -huge permanent tents, bathroom ensuites, beautiful outdoor lounge and dinner area - it was the best bed we had ever slept in, kind of sleeping in a bowl of caramel custard.

The camp had a fire the week before, and we were the first people in since the re build. They are expecting a celebtrity guest over New year.
Good sleeps needed by all to power up for camel safari tomorrow

Christmas in Jodhpur

After the amazing discovery that Santa had found us, and present opening around the "tree"( decorated chair with santa hats and stockings) we had a grand present opening. Christmas brekky maybe wasn't up to the usual Gerringong brunch standard, but we did get to eat our cold toast under a picture of "Mr Desert" 2004 /05. We took Christmas music to the restaurant with us to the confusion of the Indian guests.

We gave Davinda a box of chocs which he looked a little curious about, but he seemed happy.

A 5 hour drive away from the build up of military presence near the Pakistan border, to the Blue city of Jodpur.
We checked in to the converted riding stables in the gardens of Balsamand Palace which was just beautiful, and very relaxing.
Our Christmas dinner was amazing, it was an out door Indian BBQ, out door tables surrounded by flaming bowls to keep us warm, visually spectacular, and the food was incredible, we were very content! Merry Christmas.

The next day we ventured into Jodpur, the Fort was magnificent, though we are starting to get a little "forted" out.
From the fort we headed straight out to Rohet Garh, home of Sid, the Mini Maharajah , a good friend of Baggage's.

Jaisalmer - fairytale sand castle mixed with public toilet

The desert continued to get more desolate as we headed towards Jaisamler from Khimsar - the military presence also stepped up as we cruised along the Pakistani border. Eventually we came to the Golden City, which really does look like a giant sand castle coming up from the desert.
We checked in to our seedy hotel and headed straight out to the sandstone fort.
We found ourselves in “ little Italy” for a hit of Indian style brusetta and pizza which was surpisingly good, There was a hindi movie being shot in the court yard beneath, and the crowd swamped the star as she was trying to leave - we didn’t know her from a bar of soap. We wandered aimlessly around the narrow streets of the old city which was great, though smelt a little like the world’s largest public toilet in places. Davinda took us out to the restaurant of his choice which offered good, food annoying music and greedy waiters.
next morning was christmas eve and we all had Christmas shopping to be working on. Possbily one of the funnest christmas shopping experiences ever.

Our guide for the day was called???? apparently from the Ferrari racing team, and from a Brahmin family -this obviously meant a lot to him if not us. It is only now that the Caste system raises it’s head pretty strongly - amongst the Delhi gang they told is that is it pretty well extinct, but it is alive and well in Rajastahn!

Our guide was very fixed on showing us to his favourite shops which was a little trying, as he obviously thought we had a lot more money than we do, and were not really interested in the 8000 rupee pashmina from the neck of the himalayan goat.

But we did managed to see the longest moustache in the world 4 meters, his dad had one 6 m but was sadly assinated - possibly because of the mo, we couldn;t get clarification on that.

After we ditched the guide, when he realised there would be no commissions from us, we headed back to little Italy for re grouping and a massive hit of comfort food - poached eggs on toast, Banana and Nutella pancakes, and banana custard.

"Necessity being the mother of invention" lead to the introduction of the newly adopted family tradition of "Bed Pie" - a fine tradition based on the need not to go out in the evening for another curry, and the discovery of a funky German "Bakery" in the midst of the Jaislamere market. We are looking forward to more Bed Pie opportunities at family festivals.

Khimsar Fort - statue madness

We left the opulence of the Sara Villas and the artistry of the Havalis and headed deeper into the Desert. As we drover further towards the Thar Desert it became clear that we were driving off the normal tourist map as thatched mud huts lined the road and the villages became even more run down. Our destination was Khimsar Fort. On entering the village of Khimsar we could see what seemed like a mirage on on the hill, the Maharaja’s residence and our hotel, Fort Khimsar. As soon as we became aware of the Fort our vehicle was swamped by hundreds of turbaned men yelling and covering the road. Davinder forced his way through the crowds and into the driveway and into another world. Residence of the 18th, 19th and 20th Maharaja of Khimsar this fort is converted into the most gorgeous hotel. Though we like to imagine the crowd was because of our arrival, apparently it was actually due to the unveiling of a statue of the old Maharajah.

We sat on the rapparts and enjoyed a delicious roti and dhal for Lunch. After a long overdue bout of exercise in the Gym and swim we did a little shopping from the local crafts men and women.

Dinner was served by fire light in the old ruins within the fort at which point we all agreed that we had found the location for the next James Bond movie and pinched ourselves at our own good fortune.

Tom's birthday - Jaipur

Hooray! its Toms birthday here in jaipur it was really a fun day we started off going to the amber fort on elephant back witch was really fun there were rooms made from Belgium glass and then we went to um.... some kind of gem demonstration witch was really cool lots of rare gems there and then we went to the observatory where there is the worlds biggest sun dial witch is really big and there are lots of other smaller dials next we move on to the maharajas' house where he has a art and weapons gallery witch are both excellent and then we went on to a silver were and Tom bought a knife and then we went to some markets and jack didn't fell to good so went went back to the hotel and tom and mike went to the mall and got everyone a sub way and we went and saw a puppet show over all it was a great day and we finished it by cake and we ask Davinder to come up and have some he really enjoyed that

Fatepur Sikri

After the majesty of the incomparable Taj Mahal we traveled out of Agra to the abandoned capital of Fatipur Sikri. We were expecting to be a little “monument weary” by this stage but the city was a vast and stunning testament to an India before the British. An India of an architectural sophistication and religious tolerance that we could do well to emulate today.

Wandering through the old palaces was like walking through a CGI Hollywood set for a vast historical epic, except this was very real and largely unchanged.

One of the most striking things was the combination of religious influences in the architecture. Hindu, Islamic, Christian, Buddhist images all together in the same buildings and columns.

After Fatipur Sikri we hit the madness and mayhem of the Indian roads again to head into Rajistan and on to Jaipur

Magnificent Mahal

After a sad good bye to Baggage and Shirly, Deeya and Megna we headed put with Davinda Singh to Agra.
We visited the Agra Fort, and the Taj.

The Taj Mahal is more magnificent than I had imagined, I guess that we have seen it in so many pictures that you think you have seen it, but the detail and impact is really dramatic. We had a really great day, and are looking forward to the Rajasthan experience.

Camp Forktail and back to Delhi

Forget going to a monestary, or ashram if you are looking for total peace - check into Camp Forktail.
This is another permanent tented camp just out side the Corbett Tiger reserve near Ramegah. It is possible the most peaceful place on earth, we pretty quickly realised that we had misjudged our itinary planning here, and should have planned for an extra couple of days.Harrish was our guy here, and took us on a very cool nature walk, the forest here is full of wild elephants, tigers, leopards, and it a bird watchers paradise.
The food is amazing, and again served from silver buffetware, with people on standby in case you have a whim!~

We went of a tiger safari in a very cool little jeep with Bajee - " our very responsible guide" we were hot in pursuit of tigers, lots of prints, and poos, but they were hidden away in the grasses today -but a great day out. The park is very beautiful, and I think the boys really enjoyed the thrill of the chase in the open top jeeps.
The final morning at Forktail we went on a elephant ride through the forest, which was excellent, so peaceful and quiet. a sharp contrast to the 8 hour drive back to Delhi that followed, we were all a little shellshocked when we got back, Delhi really is chaos -undescribable.
In a total contract to the poverty you see on the street, we were invited out for dinner to one of Baggages friends when we arrived. he is a Delhi billionaire, and the event was unbelievable -the house was unbelievable, and it goes with out saying the food was.....

Corbett Tiger Reserve

It was about a 6 hour drive to Corbett, but never a dull moment driving through rural India, every time you look out the window, there is some more mind blowing than the last.
if I am ever thinking that my job is hard, you only have to check out the women with massive bales of sugar cane, or 4 metre logs on their heads to realise that it isn;t really so bad.
We saw a water buffalo carts full of about school kids on their way to school, and 3 wheel rickhsaws with more people on it than should be possible.

The women work really hard here, the men seems to stare a lot, probably at us because we are weird whities( though I was asked by the Delhi ladies how I kept my skin so delightfully pale).but it is the women who do a lot of the grunt work, there is always a small group of women with a pile of bricks on their heads, or pilig together cow poo to make bricks and ... something - not really sure what the cow poo thing is all about - in fact the cow thing is a mystery. They just wander around everywhere eating garbage and pooing - I guess that it what you get to do when you are holy!

The Mighty Ganga

I don't really get it...
The Ganges is supposed to be holy, and very spiritual place for hindu's, yet they treat it like a garbage dump, were we are is right up at the top of the river, so not all that polluted, yet you can see on the down stream side of Riskikesh, it is getting pretty scudsy -everyone washes, dumps garbage, toilets, buries their dead in it - I can;t even image what it is like once it leaves the main cities.

We went rafting today up to the mouth of the Ganga, at a little town called Devprayagh. it is the confluence of the Aleknanda and Bhagarati rivers. The rafting trip was excellent, a great team of guides came with us, and Steph and Stefan, an English girl and guy who are also working there. I think they are glad of our company. They work for Feelfree rafting in Austria in the european summer, and were blown away when they found out that we were their when Feelfree started- so we had a lot of stories of share.

Anyway a great rafting adventure, tomorrow is our last day here, them we head out for the Corbett Tiger Reserve, we'll miss it here!

Himalayan Bear Stream Camp

I ha d a shopping morning in Rishikesh this morning while the boys were on the river. It is a really interesting little town, a bit more laid back than many other Indian towns we have seen, though still the same total anarchy.
There are lot of ashrams and yoga centres, lots of foreign tourists that seem to be looking to " find themselves" in fact many wont even look you in the eye when you are wandering round with a back pack on, it's as it they think they have found the end of the earth - yet there is Littlehales playing tourist.
I asked some of the camp people what they thought of westerners wandering round Riskikesh in tie dye and cotton, and they laughed and said they though they needed a good wash and a walk in the mountains!.
There was a lot of very funky looking Sadhu's wandering around looking very mystic and the usual assortment of street vendors trying to sell me plastic cameras and peacock feathers -but we found some great pashmina's, and nepali hats which the boys practised their haggling skills on. They got their funky hats down from $3.00 to $2.00, and the salesman still went off smiling as if he had made a killing, but all were satisfied with the deal. Where we can we are trying to buy stuff from the handicraft emporiums, which have a fair trade agreement with the villages who make the handicrafts.

The friends all arrived after lunch on Friday and we moved to Baggage's newest camp at the Himalayan bear steam, similar style to Camp Panther, but more secluded. The people were lovely, all friends of Shirly and Baggages from their housing complex, they were very welcoming to us, and we had a great weekend. We had a huge camp fire each night, which looked like tribal council at Survivor. They all sang beautiful hindi and nepali folk songs, which left us looking a little think on the ground with Waltzing Matilda.
Jack and Tom were both a little ill while we were there, the Might Ganga totally purified them, inside and out! on the mend again after 24 hours and raring for action.
We went for a fantastic hike, about 5 hours into the mountains. What was awesome for me, was a tiny little school we came across about 2 hours uphill. When we set off, in full hiking gear, there was another man leaving at the same time, but while we were their in boots and back packs, he was in business shoes and brief case, when we got to the school we realised he was the teacher!

River Camp

It is a little hard to get internet access, so the posts may be a little messed up -however, we are having a fantastic time at the River camps, we have stayed mainly at Camp Panther, but also visited Leopard beach for lunch.
Every meal we have here is amazingly prepared and served, I think we are going to be the only visitors that leave from India putting on weight.But there has been plenty of rafting, kayaking and climbing to keep us going. Jack and Tom are loving being on the river, their kayaking skills have really improved, and they are in awe of some of the Nepali guys who work here as guides, they are so strong, you can see why they heave people up everest!

Baggage arrives tomorrow, so all the camp are busy polishing and fussing for his arrival, Shirly and a whole bunch of their Delhi friends arrive for the week end of Friday

Camp Panther

The Shabati Express to Haridwar

This morning saw us very very early off to Delhi station for the Shabati express to Haridwar north of Delhi, this is the starting pint for our river camp adventure at Shiv Puri, near to Rishikesh. The train was excellent, non of us really knew what to expect, lots of chai ( we are all aquiring a taste for good massala chai!), and strange chick pea burgers for breakfast. City rail could learn something from India rail!
Kamal met us at Haridwar, which looked really interesting, it is one of the main pilgrim sites for Hindu's. Lots of very cool looking statues and temples along the side of the Ganga. We drove to Camp Panther, which is Baggage's main river camp. We were met by Astor and Anjin who are the main camp managers, and introduced to Mr Champlin, who was our Nepali guide for our visit.
The Camp is beautiful. it is in the forest (very Jungle Book like), and all in permanent tents, with concrete floors and bathrooms, most amazing was that while we were having dinner, someone comes round and puts a hot water bottle in your bed!
We are being treated like royalty, and it is great to see how much pride the staff here all have for working for Baggage.
Boys are off to the river for some rafting this afternoon -cleansing their souls in the mighty Ganges!

Delhi

AAAGGGHHH!!!!!

Arriving at Delhi Airport was like nothing else. We were lucky to be met by Nareesh who was our hero and got us to Baggages house.
Stepping out of the airport was like being thrown into a Lonely planet /Pilot Guide film.
We went to Baggage's house which is beautiful, and like a oasis, Jack and Tom are enjoying being able to walk to squash and Tennis,
Driving through Delhi is like nothing else you could imagine, a crazy mix of cows, bikes, cars, people with things on their heads and the odd elephant, all moving in several directions at once.
Toms description is the best - it's like an hour glass turned over - everything that you are used it is just messed around!
Our first experience of trying to cross the road at the Red Fort was totally wild - fortunately Baggage had sent us with a helper, or we never have made it past day 1.
For me, maybe my biggest culture shock was ending up in the mall food court having dinner before settling down to a hindi movie about soccer!

From Mike -